Forts are akin to a mirror that reflects, perhaps more clearly than any sheet of glass the attainments of a people – technological as well as artistic – and bear eloquent witness to their struggles, sorrows and joys. Be it in Europe, Asia or Africa or in the South American continent, wherever there exist a heritage of millennia old civilization there exists forts that bear this out. Some citadels have survived the vagaries of time better than others but even the ruins tell a stirring tale of lost grandeur and heroism. These have been an integral part of the life of our people and continue to do so. India has a particularly rich legacy of forts and fortified cities. These represent and showcase the glorious diversity of our culture as well as repositories of literature music and performing arts. As a matter of fact in most cases prominent forts have been recognized – some for centuries- as important seats of culture. Many a sovereign who commissioned a major fort or added substantially to an old constructions in his domain was also a patron of music, dance and art. Raja Man Sing Tomar of Gwalior was an accomplished dhrupad singer and the first to recognize the genius of Tansen. This great musician’s spiritual preceptor was a Sufi mystic Mohammed Gaus whose mausoleum is visited by almost everyone who comes to the fort. Within the compound of the Gwalior fort are awe-inspiring Jain statues, a historic Gurudwara and temples built in different regional styles, for instance Teli ka mandir and Sas Bahu ka mandir. This is just one example of how a fort in the days of its glory attracted traders, craftsperson, pilgrims along with courtiers and soldiers of fortune. The fort continues to be central focus in the life of the city and just beyond the ramparts is the museum (Gujri Rani Ka Mahal) that is a rich treasury of priceless artifacts. The story of a fort thus is never restricted to the narrative of battles, victories and defeat. These compounds have for generations reverberated with soulful singing, graceful dancing and joyous celebrations in which the general population participated enthusiastically. The fortified cities protected places of worship of different faiths and were visited regularly by saints and mystics. Their biographies too enrich this saga.
When we get to know the forts of India a little better we come to appreciate the history of our great nation far better. It becomes possible to look at the past with detachment and great sympathy. The definition of heroes and villains begins to change and this can contribute greatly getting rid of caste and communal prejudices.
Some of the forts are in remote locations and not very well connected. Kalinjar Fort is located in a forest and it is very difficult to reach the fort. Similarly the Gingee Fort is located on three hillocks and takes three days to climb up the citadels. Chanderi is stimulating and satisfying in a different sense. Located in a thousand year old city and site of a decisive battle, it has suffered greatly through neglect. The restoration work there supervised by enthusiastic local volunteers stands in sharp contrast to the shocking state of affairs at Jaisalmer where tourism has flourished and spawned reckless construction of unauthorized hotels, shops etc threatening the survival of the Golden Citadel.
The artistic heritage of Bundi, Orchha, Bikaner and Patiala is very charming and is of a great importance. These forts are repositories of priceless miniature paintings of Rajput, Deccan, Pahari and Mogul schools. The evolution of architectural styles and development techniques is no less fascinating.
The forts of the Deccan plateau Golkonda, Bidar, Bijapur and Daulatabad are spell binding. They reminded us constantly of the resplendent legacy we are inheritors to. It is impossible not to be moved by the mystique of charismatic individuals who have dwelt here-princes, soldiers of fortune, poets and mystic mentors. In Bidar the shadow of Mahmud Gawan looms large and in Bijapur the presence of Abrahim Adil Shah II (fondly remembered by Bijapurians as Ali Wali) is palpable. Quli Qutab Shah continues to weave his magic at Golconda and Hyderabad. The confluence of Persian, Turkish, Tamil, Andhra and Maharashtrian cultural streams make Deccan and these forts very special. Without referring to history textbooks we were made deeply aware how the Qutab Shahis, and others displayed like their contemporary Moguls in the North India, a genius for synthesis and strove to become the beloved children of India. In Daulatabad the much misunderstood and often maligned duo Muhammad Tuglaq and Aurangzeb spontaneously evoke sympathy. We are constrained to ask ourselves, ‘ Do we really know what these men were like or go by stereotypes?’ Heroes and villains from the past continue to haunt contemporary India and it is imperative that we exorcise these spirits.
The image of Jangira – a sea fort, the bastion of the Siddis- valiant sailors and immigrants from Africa with the large waves lapping its steps at high tide are unforgettable. And how can one get the ramparts of the vanadurg Ranathmbor out of the mind’s eye? Ginjee standing on top of a hill that soars up from flat paddy fields is where the Marathas held the Moguls at bay for years. The desolate buildings haunted us for days after the shoot was over.
At Fatehpur Sikri we are humbled by sheer grandeur. The vision of Akbar translated in stone casts a powerful spell even after the city was deserted almost four hundred years ago. The Red Forts in Agra and Delhi are perhaps the best known and most visited of Indian forts but once we step inside myriad charms hitherto unnoticed holds us spellbound. Particularly distressing are the encroachments- some official- at the Red Fort- a World Heritage Site in the Capital! Purana Qila spans the gap between the realms of ancient and the ultra modern. It is an edifice that even in ruined state articulates a tension that is very much a part of our daily lives. Here one can not help thinking that this may well have been the site where the proverbial ‘die was literally cast’ that ignited the conflagration of the Mahabharat.
Chittor, Gwalior and Mehrangarh Forts are truly majestic. They combine scale, legend and lore with a dazzling display of artistic riches. Picture post cards however beautiful fail to do justice to these citadels. People living within the ramparts or around have a very special relationship with these forts. For them these are not protected monuments or tourist attractions. Here the sense of belonging and ownership is infectious. It is impossible to remain untouched by the spirit of joy tinged with tragic at Mandu that was once the playground of Baaz Bahadur and Rupmati.
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